H&M to create AI "twins" of models, sparking job concerns in fashion industry

Fashion retailer H&M is set to utilize artificial intelligence (AI) to create digital "twins" of 30 models. The company plans to feature these AI-generated replicas in social media posts and marketing campaigns, provided they receive permission from the models involved.

Jörgen Andersson, H&M's chief creative officer, stated, "We are curious to explore how to showcase our fashion in new creative ways – and embrace the benefits of new technology – while staying true to our commitment to personal style." However, this initiative has raised concerns among industry professionals, including models, photographers, and make-up artists, about the potential impact on their jobs.

American influencer Morgan Riddle criticized H&M's decision, calling it "shameful" and lamenting the job losses it could cause on shoot sets. H&M, which operates over 4,000 stores worldwide across various brands, has emphasized that models will maintain rights over their digital likenesses and how they are used, particularly for marketing purposes.

The initiative was first reported by Business of Fashion, which noted that H&M plans to use watermarks on images to clearly indicate their AI-generated nature. Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok require users to disclose AI-generated content, ensuring transparency for audiences.

H&M assured that models would be compensated for the use of their digital twins in line with current agreements, where payment is based on rates established by their agents. Paul W Fleming, general secretary of the trade union Equity, emphasized the importance of models having control over their likeness and fair compensation. He called for stronger protections for workers in light of the growing use of AI in the industry, citing concerns over the unauthorized use of models' images by tech and AI developers.

Other fashion brands, including Hugo Boss and Levi Strauss & Co, have also explored the use of generative AI for product images. In 2023, Levi's announced trials for AI-generated model images to enhance diversity, but clarified that it would not reduce live photoshoots with real models.

Generative AI can produce photo-realistic images quickly and cheaply, making it attractive to many industries, including fashion. However, its increasing adoption has sparked backlash, with fears that it may lead to reduced job opportunities for production staff, including photographers, stylists, and make-up artists.

H&M is collaborating with Uncut, a Swedish tech firm, to develop these AI likenesses. Uncut's mission is to modernize production methods and simplify content creation for brands. Some models have expressed that having an "AI twin" allows them to take on more work without the need for travel, as noted by model Mathilda Gvarliani.

However, Fleming cautioned that many models are still facing inequitable contracts that deny them ownership rights and fair compensation, calling it an "abhorrent violation" given the personal nature of their likenesses. The debate continues as the fashion industry navigates the implications of AI technology on creative professions.