Tod's took the idea of transfer -- from one designer to the next -- to the next level at Milan Fashion Week
Credits: MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP

Tod's took the idea of transfer -- from one designer to the next -- to the next level at Milan Fashion Week

Tod's elevated the concept of succession – passing from one designer to the next – to a new level on Friday at Milan Fashion Week. The brand staged its inaugural show under designer Matteo Tamburini at the city's atmospheric tram depot.

Surrounded by vintage trams painted in marigold bearing Tod's name for the occasion, Tamburini presented a collection of smart, luxurious, and travel-ready looks. The runway featured oversized zippered leather totes and garment bags, adding to the allure.

The designer, formerly the head of ready-to-wear at Bottega Veneta, is among three newly appointed creative heads debuting for Italian brands this week, alongside Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino and Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine.

The Tod's ticket was one of the week's most awaited, helped in part by the brand's ambassador, Chinese singer and actor Xiao Zhan, for whom dozens of young women waited in the rain behind barricades to see.

"He's so handsome, do you think he's handsome too?" gushed one fan.

Back inside, Conde Nast's Anna Wintour, encased in a burgundy leather trench, was nearly trampled by a phalanx of cameras surrounding the Chinese star, dressed head to toe in a warm shade of taupe.

Under the warm yellow lights over the runway, guests were treated to heated cushions to beat the chill as they eyed long cuffed trousers in sophisticated greys, creamy leather blouses and belted jackets, and classic trenches with a roomy feel.

Of course, with Tod's roots in footwear, Tamburini had to take a stab at the brand's classic Gommino moccasin. Here, it got a modern, Muppet-like twist with the addition of exaggerated red leather fringe at the front that vibrated with every step.

The fringe made another appearance adorning the back of a sleeveless, burgundy hued leather dress. A turtleneck collar transformed in the back into long streamers of fringe, dangling back and forth over an exposed back.

Sophisticated and modern, the collection looked tailor-made for the kind of fashionista who would never be seen running for a train.

"All the marketing and styling team together" chose the appropriate venue, Diego Della Valle, Tod's Group CEO, told AFP after the show.

Earlier this month, Tod's announced it was going private under a deal with private equity fund L Catterton, which is backed by luxury conglomerate LVMH, with the Della Valle family continuing to be majority shareholders.


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