To show or not to show at London Fashion Week? That was the question at this year's event for young independent brands facing higher costs post Brexit and soaring inflation

To attend or not attend London Fashion Week? That was the dilemma for young independent brands at this year's event, grappling with increased costs post-Brexit and soaring inflation.

For the past 40 years, London Fashion Week has been a launchpad for emerging designers straight out of prestigious schools like Central Saint Martins, alongside major players like Burberry.

However, a cost-of-living crisis in Britain, compounded by persistently high inflation and financial ramifications from the country's EU departure, presents "incredibly challenging" times for young brands, says Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council.

London Fashion Week opened Friday, shortly after official data revealed that Britain was in recession, as high inflation takes its toll on households and businesses. The event wrapped up Tuesday, while the year's second LFW is due in September.

This year's fashion week saw the return of Dublin-born menswear designer Robyn Lynch and Turkish-British peer Dilara Findikoglu -- both emerging and popular talents.

The latter's provocative female clothing has made Findikoglu one of the most anticipated names to showcase their latest designs.

However, she cancelled her September 2023 London show at the last minute, telling the New York Times: "We simply don't have the finances for a runway show right now."

Designers tend to book in for both shows in a single year.

This time around, the KWK by KAY KWOK show was cancelled after key pieces due to have featured on the London catwalk were destroyed following an unspecified incident at a factory in China.

Nensi Dojaka meanwhile failed to appear at the latest show.

Rush downplayed the absences.

"There is nothing wrong with skipping a season. It doesn't mean to say that you're not continuing to grow," she told AFP.

"Sometimes the designers will be offered a free venue in another city... that might take them away from London," she added.

The label Feben decided to showcase in Milan for the current season, thanks to support from Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana.